E.T.Smith wrote:My 2004 Helix has reached it's first regular maintenance benchmark under my ownership. Should be the simplest job, but I'm unsure of a couple things:
Which engine oil should I use? I have at hand synthetic SAE 10W-40 API Service SN, but I've read some indication it may be better to find a lower API rating because of the older engine design, ditto on avoiding synthetic.
What are the specs on the sealing washer? It's recommend I replace it when I change oil, but neither my owner nor service manual specifies what size I need to get.
Answers and warnings of further pitfalls are appreciated.
1. Use full synthetic oil and change it every 1K miles. There is no oil filter. The crankcase takes .85 qt. Several people have reported that one full quart will fill the crankcase. If you overfill, the excess oil will spill out the uncapped oil fill reservior. I use an old metal paint roller tray under any oil fills. If you overfill, tilt the bike at an angle to release excess into the tray. Easy peasy.
2. Here is the crush washer for the drain plug: WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (12MM) 94109-12000. $1.99. You can use it several times. Once you overtighten it, since it is aluminum, the bolt head will groove the washer. After awhile, it will leak. Next oil change turn the washer over and you can use it several more times without leakage. Torque drain bolt 13-16 ft-lb. Keep an extra aluminum washer on hand.
3. Tip: Always place clean white cardboard/towel under recently changed oil drain plug. Any leakage will appear as drips. Real handy when seeing anti-freeze drips from the bad crush washer there.
zoz